Freedom Row Adventures

Boat Hatch Projects

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There have been three boat hatch projects on the Freedom Row.  The first was the forward hatch built out of teak and lexan by Mr. Steele.  You can see that hatch in the photo gallery with the lobster sitting on it.

The second was the bi-fold door hatch from the cockpit to the cabin.  I have some pretty good pictures of this project and it was just a repair project but I did some neat things with epoxy and teak dust.

The third was the largest project of all and required the longest time.  I will describe in fair detail the events leading up to the photographs.  I wish I had some photos of the fiberglass part of the project but I'll fill you in.

Bi-Fold Hatch Project 

Below you will see a photograph of the bi-fold hatch from the Freedom Row.  After 30+ years in the weather she had a little wear and tear in the way of rot that had been caused by rain leaking through the plexiglass and running down the inside of the hatch.  You will also notice the main hatch in the background that was going through a test fitting while I was working on the bi-fold hatch. 

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Below is  close up of the bi-fold hatch clearly showing the rotted areas.  I used a drill with a wood auger bit to grind out all of the rotted areas.  It took a couple of hours because you really have to get down in there good to make sure there isn't any rot left.

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This photo shows the drill bit I used to clean out the rotted wood.

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Now comes the fun part.  Once you have gotten all your rotted wood cleaned out,  Use some acetone to help evaporate the moisture make sure you vacuum all the lose particles of dust and wood out of the holes.  Tape off all the areas that might have cracks that would allow the epoxy to flow out of the holes left by the removal of rot.  Mix up a batch of epoxy with slow hardener and no additives and saturate the interior of your holes.  After that's done you will need to make a new batch of epoxy unless your first batch was larger than you needed for saturating the holes.
In the new batch of epoxy still with slow hardener mix in a large amount of teak or mahogany dust from previous projects.  Oh did I mention you should keep all the sanding and cutting dust from any work you do on good woods.  Mix this batch so that it is very thick, not quite where it will stand up on its own.  Then fill your holes.  We used slow hardener because this is where it gets tricky.   Over the next couple of hours you will want to find a way to vibrate the hatch to shake the air bubles out of it.  You can lay a drill on the hatch with a lopsided bit of some sort so that it gives you a good vibration.  Make sure you leave just  alittle above your holes so it has room to expand or contract as the bubbles come out of it.
 

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Wait at least 24 hours and check what you have the epoxy should be very hard and have the color appearance of the wood dust you used.  Take off all your tape and sand down the epoxy areas and you should get a relatively close match to your surrounding wood.  It won't have the same grain but it will never rot out again.  After you get the epoxy wood mix sanded down sand the rest of the wood with a light 150-200 grit sandpaper.  Then varnish it like you normally would.  I use Cetol.  Your hatch should then look pretty good and unless you tell people about the repair noone usually notices it.

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Main Hatch Project 

This will be a long description

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Boat_Hatch_Epoxy_teakboard.jpg

Boat_Hatch_Final3.jpg

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Aside from the dirt from Norfolk Spectrum it doesn't look to bad.

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The completed hatches back where they belong

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Sinbad contributed the idea of using starboard as a slider.

For more information call: (757) 435-3812

Photographs provided by Hysterically Correct Productions
Website design  by Pernell Taylor Consulting.  * Freedomrow.net * Rebel Marine * Willoughby Spit 
* Chesapeake Bay * Norfolk, Virginia * USA *

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